Creating harmony - introducing a new cat

While there are many happy multi-cat households, it is also true that in many instances, happy households become very unhappy households when a new cat is introduced. Don't expect your cat(s) to welcome a new member of the family with open paws. There are steps you should take to reduce the chance of a new cat totally upsetting the balance that currently exists. It can be a nerve-wracking experience for your old cat, the new cat, and you if you don't take extra care in making the decision to add a cat to your household.

First, evaluate your current cat's personality, prior experiences with other cats (even outdoor cats he's seen through the window), and health status. Try to see the situation from your cat's point of view. Cat behavior is complex and interactions between cats are often totally the opposite of what we might expect of our pet. Cats are solitary rather than pack-oriented animals. A new cat is an invader in their safe environment and a potential competitor for resources. The less competition you can create, the better. A young cat presents less of a threat than an adult cat, as does a cat of the opposite sex. A spayed or neutered pet will also ease the threat. Choose the most easy-going cat/kitten you can find but we don't recommend a shy cat. Look for one who wants to interact with you, yet is unaffected by all the other cats and activity in the room. The cute-factor is most often the deciding factor, but it shouldn't be. Personality must be at the top of your list.

Plan in advance how to introduce the new pet and what extra items you will need. A multi-cat household is a multi-litter box household. One litter box for each cat plus one extra is the rule of thumb. And don't set them all in one place. Spreading out litter boxes makes it harder for a territorial cat to ambush another cat trying to use the litter box. Many cats will not use a soiled box, so having many boxes increases the chances of this cat finding a clean one. Of course, you will also need another set of food and water bowls, and more beds and toys.

Before taking any new cat into your household make sure it is free of any illness or parasites that could be shared with the current resident(s).

On the day you bring the new cat home, make the house as quiet as possible; no blaring TVs, no screaming children. Do not let the cats see each other. The new cat should be taken directly to a room of his own with food, water, litter box, toys, and a place to sleep. Spend quality time with both cats, but do not allow any interaction between them for about a week. They will be checking each other out under the door. Grooming both cats with the same brush and alternating toys and sleeping blankets/beds during this time will allow the cats to get a chance to know more about their new housemate before direct interaction. After that week, confine the resident cat to a different room for a few hours and allow the new cat to explore. Then switch them back again. Do this for several days. Then place the new cat in a large crate or kennel in "his" room and allow the resident cat to come into the room. Don't force the interaction but be present when the resident cat decides to check it out. Talk softly, praising the cats for quiet interaction. If they start hissing and growling, distract them with toys, not treats. We don't want to reward them for hissing at each other. This process should be repeated often over the next several days. Then you can feed them side by side with the new cat in his kennel and the resident cat close by. Continue this for a few days before allowing them out together. The actual time for the "big moment" will depend on how well the previous interaction has gone. If you feel they are showing signs of getting along it is time to give it a try. It is recommended that you do this in a room that is familiar to both cats and has plenty of places to hide if that is what they chose to do. Stay calm and reassuring and keep a watchful eye on the cats to gauge their comfort level. Be prepared for the unexpected. It is not uncommon for a fight to break out even after all your work. Do not try to pull them apart. If necessary, squirt water at them, blow a whistle, or throw a blanket over them depositing them in separate rooms until they calm down. Don't punish either cat. This can elicit further aggression, making your problem worse. Even when you feel they will tolerate each other, it is still a good idea to keep them separated when you're not at home until you are certain there is a solid truce between them.

Successful introductions require time and patience. Eventually both cats will set up routines that allow them to coexist peacefully in you home. You might even be lucky enough to have them enjoy each other's companionship.

Information contained in this article was taken from the Feb. 2001 publication of Cat Watch, the journal of the Cornell Feline Health Center. For further information on cat health, visit them on-line at www.vet.cornell.edu/Public

TEN TIPS ON SELECTING A PET FOR YOUR FAMILY

1. When considering a pet always research the characteristics and needs of that particular species or breed of animal. Impulsive choices can make for years of regret or the sorrow of a lost pet.

2. Looks and behaviors are selected for and bred into animals for a reason. Herding dogs will have a tendency to chase and nip; terriers are inherently aggressive hunters and will often show that same tendency toward people. Some breeds of dogs are instinctively better with children, while some breeds will, by their size and instinctive nature, be a problem with children. In general, some breeds of cats are very quiet and good-natured; others are instinctively vocal and high-strung. A pot-bellied pig may be cute at six weeks, but may not make a good apartment pet at 250 pounds.

3. Certain animals are very adaptable and trainable, while others are not. No animal is born knowing what you want and how to live in your environment. It must be trained. The breed with the unique looks may not be the one best suited for your training expertise.

4. Visit a "puppy kindergarten" class or a local dog training facility. These experts on dog training can provide valuable insight on the different dog breeds and which may best fit your needs. Enrolling your dog and yourself in a training class can make all the difference between a well-mannered member of the family and a chronic headache.

5. Consider your environment when selecting a pet. Large dogs will need more room to exercise indoors and out. Dogs will require some form of containment outdoors, either a fence or leash. Cats can be easily and willingly kept indoors, eliminating the need for outdoor accommodations.

6. Consider your schedule and life style. Dogs require much more personal attention than does a cat, bird, fish, small pocket pet, or caged reptile. Dogs require frequent trips outdoors for exercise and elimination as opposed to other pets. If denied, these dogs can create significant problems in the home.

7. Think through carefully the maintenance cost and responsibilities assumed with pet ownership. Discuss these needs with all family members and consider the effects this new member of the household will have on everyone involved. A pet is not a disposable commodity; a pet is a lifelong obligation. Assume it wisely.

8. Visit your local humane organization or county animal control shelter, but remember that adult pets have already developed many habits, good and bad, that you may have to deal with. Often these pets are turned in because of lack of training and bad behavior. Sometimes the pets are roaming freely and are confiscated by officers. These behaviors are usually correctable if done with patience and the right techniques. These pets are however, the most in need of the right home. Seeking a pet at these shelters is not only commendable, but is encouraged.

9. Your veterinarian is the ideal source of information and recommendations for appropriate selection of a pet. Pet stores, breeders, and shelters are in business to place animals in homes and may be knowledgeable to help in your selection, however, a veterinarian is still a valuable resource in making your pet selection. Schedule an actual appointment to visit your local veterinarian and discuss your interest in a pet. It will be money very well spent.

10. Enjoy your pet. There is no better friend.

Helping Wild Infants

Every year many baby wild animals are "rescued" that don't need to be rescued. Well-meaning people try to help when they believe the babies have been abandoned by their parents. The truth is, wild animals are devoted to the care of their young and rarely abandon them. In fact, they will often risk their own lives in defense of their families. Some mammals, such as rabbits and deer, keep a distance from their young during the day so as not to give away their location. In some cases the parents aren't coming back to visit the nest because of the threat of humans nearby.

Human intervention should be the absolute last resort for any wild infant. Rescue of wild animals should only occur when the animal is obviously injured or if you are absolutely sure that the mother is dead. (In the case of birds, both parents care for the young, so the death of the mother is not reason enough to rescue her babies.) When a wild baby is being threatened by neighborhood dogs or cats, the solution lies in controlling the domestic animals, not rescuing the wild baby. Native wildlife are protected by Ohio law. It is illegal for anyone to possess a native wild animal unless permitted by the Ohio Division of Wildlife. Wildlife rehabilitators have these permits and have the proper training and equipment to provide care to orphaned or injured animals. Should you have to rescue an orphaned or injured wild animal, keep them in a warm and dark place and call the Ohio Wildlife Center at 793-WILD (9453) immediately. Hand-rearing a wild infant may facilitate it's immediate survival, but without the training of the wildlife rehabilitator, the potential for long-term survival in the wild is greatly reduced.

Information contained within this article was obtained from the Ohio Division of Wildlife, www.dnr.state.oh.us/wildlife the Columbus Metro Parks www.metroparks.net, and the Ohio Wildlife Center, www.ohiowildlifecenter.org.

WELCOME MADISON SKYLAR PEPPER! Born May 7, 2002 to Stephanie and Russ Pepper. She was 8lbs. 5oz. and 19 3/4" long. Madison and Mom (and Dad) are doing fine. We are looking forward to having Stephanie back at her receptionist post July 1st.

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