November, 2001

In this newsletter and again in our December newsletter we will be discussing "exotics". Exotics is a general term describing small animals other than dogs and cats which are kept as pets. In an attempt to help you decide if this might be a pet you would like to have, these articles will familiarize you with the animal and it's housing and nutritional needs. We are also instituting a new "column" we're calling Notes From the Desk of Nya and Einstein. Most of our clients will know that these are our two hospital cats seen regularly roaming the halls or napping on the fax machine. This column will contain tidbits of seasonal information designed to help you keep your pet healthy and happy all year long.

Creatures of the Green Lagoon

Reptiles are becoming very popular pets. They don't need to go outside like our dogs and they don't shred the couch or spend the night sleeping on your face like many of our cats. They do need regular care however. Here are some guidelines to caring for some of the most popular.

Turtles
There are a variety of turtles that are kept as pets. Their needs will vary based on the type of turtle you have. The following information is very general so make sure your housing and diet choices are specific for your variety of turtle.

• Housing - Turtles require a predominately aquatic environment with a dry "haul out" area that is heated. A 20-gallon aquarium would be fine but the bigger the better with a large pool constructed so the turtle can climb in and out of the water easily. Frequent complete water changes are necessary. Acceptable bedding includes newspaper, alfalfa pellets, and large gravel. Avoid sand, aquarium gravel, pea gravel - anything that can be ingested and cause impaction. Also avoid cedar chips which may cause toxicity. The temperature should be maintained at 70 - 80ºF. Turtles like to hide themselves under leaf litter so this should be provided in a corner of the cage. Humidity levels must be kept high for turtles or their skin will crack. The bedding mixture should be changed completely as needed and feces must be cleaned out at least once weekly. Turtles can go outside in the summer (not over 80 degrees) but you must watch them closely. They will wander off or dig out of fenced areas.

• Nutrition - Many pet turtles experience malnutrition. Feeding a well balanced, varied diet goes a long way toward ensuring good health. Different turtle species need different diets but generally they need a diet consisting of 50% animal or high-protein foods such as earthworms, crickets, snails, and slugs, and 50% vegetables and fruit such as dandelions, leafy greens, carrots, mushrooms, bell peppers, tomatoes, strawberries, blueberries, melon and raspberries (but go easy on the fruit). There are very good commercially available diets for turtles but they should be supplemented with calcium. Check the web or your pet store for calcium supplements for turtles.

• Water - Clean, fresh water is extremely important and keeping it clean is a daily task. It is not uncommon for water supplies to become contaminated with bedding and feces.

Iguanas
Iguanas reach their full length usually around 2-3 years of age. If you start with a young iguana be prepared to make several housing changes as it grows. They generally live 10-15 years if all goes well.

• Housing - A 20-gallon aquarium is OK to start but as an adult your iguana will need a much larger one. The enclosure should be secure, with a tight-fitting screened lid. Plants, either live or artificial, may be used and branches of appropriate diameter should be provided for climbing. Iguanas prefer to be alone in their living quarters. More than one iguana in an aquarium will lead to aggression and often death of the more subordinate iguana. Acceptable bedding materials include newspaper, brown butcher paper, cypress mulch, organic (recycled) cellulose fiber, or lab animal pellets. Warmth is their highest priority. Keep the aquarium at 85º - 90º F during the day and down to 70º F at night. Provide a localized hot spot at 95º - 100º F but make sure the iguana can fully remove himself from the basking area when he wants to. Also be sure the heat source is not accessible to the iguana. They will try to lie directly on the source of the heat and may burn themselves. Humidity levels should be kept around 60 - 80%. Iguanas will shed their skin and it is not uncommon for it to get caught on their toes and tail. It is important that you help them remove this excess skin because it can compromise circulation to their extremities. Many people allow their iguana free roam of the house but be careful. They are often attacked by other family pets and they like to eat things they shouldn't like nails and tacks.

• Nutrition - Iguanas are herbivorous, actually they are folivorus, which means they eat leaves. Commercial diets are available for iguanas but are inadequate alone. Feed calcium rich vegetables such as turnip greens, mustard greens, beet greens, kale, collards, bok choy, Swiss chard, dandelions, parsley, escarole, spinach, alfalfa pellets, and cilantro. They'll also eat grape leaves, mulberry leaves, hibiscus leaves and flowers, and rose petals. Once daily feeding for adults and twice daily for juveniles is recommended. Food should be washed, chopped coarsely for adults and fine for juveniles, mixed, and served at room temperature.

• Water - Fresh water must be available at all times. Make sure bowls are placed for easy access and frequent cleaning.

Leopard Geckos
Their small size makes them a popular pet. Generally speaking they are easy to care for.

• Housing - Most geckos will do well in a 10 - 20 gallon aquarium with smooth aquarium stones lining the bottom, large rocks for cover, and a tight fitting screened lid. Geckos can live together if you pair a male with a female. Placing 2 males together will usually result in constant fighting. Keep the air temperature in the aquarium at 70º-90º F. Humidity levels for geckos should be only 20-30 %. You can add climbing branches but since they are terrestrial reptiles they usually don't go too high.

• Nutrition - Geckos are insectivorous. Feed them a variety of insects including: grasshoppers, crickets, moths, flies, wax worms, and mealworms daily. They may also lap flower nectar. You should supplement their diet with calcium. Adults can eat baby mice occasionally but not too often as they really love this delicacy and will gain weight. The key to a healthy gecko is dietary variety. Feeding only one or two types of insects can lead to malnutrition and sudden death.

• Water - Fresh water must be available at all times.

Snakes
Snakes can be great pets and are warm and velvety to the touch, not cold and slimy as many people think. Remember if you choose to have a large snake, you can be liable for injuries or trauma your snake may inflict on others. Large snake's aquariums should be kept locked and that cage should be kept in a room with a closed door to ensure that he won't be slithering through the neighborhood.

• Housing - Glass, plastic or fiberglass aquariums with a tight-fitting screened lid are fine for snakes. The size depends on the size of the snake. It should be roughly as long as the snake and about half as wide as it is long, with a secure top. Snakes are best housed individually with temperatures ranging from 70º - 75º F at night to 85º - 95º F during the day. Humidity levels depend on the species. Desert species prefer a lower humidity but generally humidity in a snakes' environment should be 30 - 70 %. Humidity will facilitate shedding. If it is too low you can mist the air a few times a week with a water bottle. You can tell when a snake is getting ready to shed by a color change in his eyes. They will become milky blue and opaque. Handling of the snake should be avoided during this time because the fragile skin being formed underneath can be easily damaged. Bedding options for snakes include newspaper, and pine/ash wood shavings. Snakes should be provided with branches of varying sizes and heights, and hiding places such as secured rocks forming a cave, a hollow log, or artificial vegetation.

• Nutrition - Diet is dependant totally on the species of snake. Some snakes eat only insects, some eat only amphibians, but most eat small rodents such as mice. If rodents are their primary diet, avoid diseased, undernourished or wild-caught rodents. Offer the food on a solid surface to avoid ingestion of bedding. The rodent should be humanely stunned or killed before offering it to your snake. Believe it or not a hungry rodent will often gnaw on the snake without his offering any resistance (for a while - then he will eat it).

• Water - Fresh water must be available at all times. Many snakes will soak in their water containers so make sure the bowl is heavy enough to not spill and large enough that the snake will fit. Clean bowls daily. Great care should be taken when working with the large snakes so make sure someone else is around when you are feeding or handling the large snakes, to assist or call for help if the snake decides you will be on today's menu.

Information contained in these articles on reptiles is from the Exotic Companion Medicine Handbook for Veterinarians and from the Pet Planet Newsletter. Visit Pet Planet on-line at www.healthypet.com, the website of the American Animal Hospital Association.

Notes from the Desk of Nya and Einstein

November is a busy time of year with lots of preparations for the holidays and the rapidly approaching cold weather. Here are some common seasonal hazards to consider.

Turkey - Many owners allow their pets to have a few treats from the table but please put turkey and turkey bones on the no-no list. It really can make us sick and some pets have died from it.

Antifreeze - A common pre-winter task, changing antifreeze can prove fatal to your pet. It is highly poisonous and yet has a flavor that attracts animals. Be sure to completely contain the antifreeze in sealed jugs. Do not allow the antifreeze to run down the gutter. If some is spilled, absorb it completely with kitty litter or other absorbent material and sweep it into sealed containers. If your pet does ingest antifreeze, treat this as an emergency and call our hospital immediately. Some animals survive antifreeze poisoning but only with rapid treatment.

Fleas - Late October/early November may seem like an odd time of year to worry about those nasty little critters but fleas are currently looking for a warm place to spend the winter. They will find the nearest warm dog or cat and move right in. Continue to use your flea control medication at least until we've had two good hard freezes. That should put an end to flea season (outdoors anyway).

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